McCall's 8108 Raven | Pattern Review



This was such a fun make and I’m so excited to show it to you guys! it turned out exactly how I imagined. I was going for the whole cottagecore trend that is so popular right now and I think I nailed it. So, let me break down all the details.

First the fabric. This vintage floral print is actually a thrifted sheet I found at Goodwill. Bet you never would have guessed right? Those old sheets look so sad in the store, but once you cut them up into a cute silhouette like this one, they come back to life. What’s more is they are usually 100% cotton meaning they are super easy to sew, comfortable to wear, and breathable. So two thumbs up from me.

The pattern is McCall’s 8108 aka Raven. It’s described as an empire waist seam, gathered dress in various lengths, necklines and straps. I made view B exactly how it was designed.

When you go online to look for reviews of this pattern you’re going to see a lot of “negative” ones. Lots of people say this pattern gave them so much trouble and they almost tossed it for good.

In my opinion, those people would have saved themselves a lot of frustration if they just muslined it. Yes, there are fit issues through the bust. Yes, it’s very big through the center front. But, with a quick muslin, I was able to establish those discrepencies and make a few quick adjustments to get the fit just right.

And, for the record, my adjustments included taking 2” out of the center front, adding 1/2” to each of the side seams and adding 3/8” to the back seams. the skirt needs no alterations because they are just gigantic rectangles that you gather into the bodice seam.

The straps fit fine for me, but some people have had to alter the length.

The only other thing I changed was the width of the sleeve band. I added 1/2” to the underarm seam for extra ease.

Now, when it comes to sewing this cutie, it’s really such an easy sew. Just a few princess seams, some gathers, and hems…

E X E P T

for those darn sleeve heads. As you can see, the sleeve attaches to the bodice with a right angle. This was a real beast to get everything sewn without any puckers or gathers. I perserveered but if you are a beginner, I would recommend setting this one to the side for a minute.

I have an idea for a hack that would make this sleeve 1000 times easier, but I need to test it out first. Thankfully i got another sheet last week so I have the fabric. haha.

Ok. What else. I guess the only other thing to mention is the center back zipper. Nothing special there. Oh, and the bodice is lined, which is no big deal once you get the fit issues sorted out.

I kept the original length of the hem which hits just above the knee on my 5 foot 5 frame.

Oh oh oh! I almost forgot. Ok! The sleeves to want to slide off your shoulder. Especially if the band gets stuck on the higher part of your arm. So, I need to add bra strap holder things to keep it up. Other than that though, this dress is pretty perfect!

I’m so thrilled with it. Vintage fabric with a modern design might be my 2021 aesthetic all around. I just love it so much.

but, that’s going to do ti for me today! Let me know in the comments section if you have any specific questions about Raven. Otherwise, I’ll see you all very soon! Bye!





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