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Coral Twill Skort Suit Set Sewing Fails(ish) | M7549 + S1370

As summer comes to an end, I wanted to share with you guys this little shorts set that I made earlier this year. As it turns out, it’s a great transitional outfit for when the temperatures are cool in the mornings but hot in the afternoons.

Let’s first start with the cute little jacket. It might surprise you to know that this is McCall’s 7549. The cover model and line art present a much fussier jacket with quilting or an abundance of trim. But, when you take this design to its bare bones, the style lines are quite simple.

Because of this, I wanted to really make the few style lines it had a little snazzier, so I sewed them all as flat felled seams. It also ensures that the seams look as beautiful on the inside as they do on the inside.

You can see that I did a little fake out and faced my jacket with a contrast fabric I had left over from a dress I made around the same time. The corals are almost identical. And, who can resist a floral surprise?!

My downfall in this jacket was attempting the flat felling seams in the super fitted sleeve head. There was just too much ease in the sleeve to fit the tailored armcye for me to pull it off successfully. It was my first time attempting flat felled sleeves and I should have attempted them on a more relaxed sleeve instead of this one. I need to rip these sleeves off and resew them with serged inner seams but haven’t gotten around to it yet. Mostly because I really haven’t had a chance to wear this jacket much since i made it. For what it’s worth, I also think the upper part of the back bodice is too small, too which isn’t helping where the sleeves are concerned.

OH, one thing though… I need ya’lls help because I’m honestly stumped with this one fit issue…

See how the center front crosses at the neckline and the slowly gapes open at the hem? What is that? It’s not too small in the hip at all, there’s plenty of ease, but why is it gaping? Is it the something with the fit of the bust? If you have some experience in this area, please let me know what to check for my next version.

Other than that, though, this jacket is super cute. Right out of the envelope, the length is great. And, although slim, I love the sleeve shape so much.

Ok. now for the skort. The pattern for this one is Simplicity 1370. Technically, I made the shorts, view B and then added the overlay with the buckle from view E. I also moved the zipper from the center back to the side seam.

I had made this pattern before with a linen from Joann, that just stretched and stretched when I wore it so it ended up getting donated. This time, I think I got the fabrication right, but the fit is a little off. I hesitate pointing these things out to you guys because then that’s all you see, but ultimately, I think it helps us ID what is wrong and makes all of our makes better in the end.

So, starting with the waistband, I must have added some width to the raw edge of the top of the shorts because that waistband did not want to ease in to the shorts at all. I thought I would be able to press out the waviness, but it’s just too much ease in that seam.

Next, the shorts. They are both too short and the back is riding up which I actually think is a matter of my front rise not being long enough. That and also maybe the back crotch curve is too narrow?

Additionally the overlay isn’t wide enough at my hips. The curve of my hips and bum are pulling the overlay to the back and this is causing a gaping along the side seam and the overlay wanting to pull toward the center.

Of course, its very easy for me to identify all of things things as I’m watching the video of me modeling the makes. The shorts actually feel funny when I’m wearing them but I can’t rightly say why. But, watching this footage back shows me exactly what I need to do for my next version. Which, honestly, would be a lot of work to fix. So, I’ll probably take a pair of shorts that fit very well and just add on the dang overlay. It would be a super simple hack to any pair of shorts or pants.

The fabric that I used for both of these makes is a cotton twill that I don’t remember where I got. But, it’s pretty lightweight. Well, lightweight as far as twills are concerned. I have some more twill in my stash that I can use to perfect this shorts suit look which I definitely love. I’ll work on fixing the sleeve of the jacket, donate the skort, and take a bunch of lessons with me on the next part of my sewing journey.

But, that’s going to do it for me today! Thank you so much for watching! I’ll see you all very soon!



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