Another week, another pair of pants. I really think I’m cracking the code…finally! I’m still not quite ready to do a tutorial, but I am planning some content with pants fitting at the forefront so stay tuned for that. In the mean time, soak in this gorgeousness that I made up last week.
The pattern is Simplicity 8547. It’s from their Amazing Fit collection which features different pattern pieces for Slim, Average, and Curvy figures. And, in terms of pattern alterations,I had to made fewer on this pattern than any other pants pattern, so there must be something to their curvy pants block.
The biggest alterations I made to the pattern were adding a third dart in the back and changing the J shaped back crotch to an L shaped one. The latter is also referred to as scooping and it’s pretty controversial, but from what I can tell, if you’re making trousers its ok and if you’re making close fitting pants, you should find another way to get the fit right.
The pattern is designed to sit 1.5” above your waist line making them super high waisted. I know that design is not for everyone, but I really love a high waisted pant. It’s the most comfortable for me with my belly protrusion.
Another thing I love about this pattern is the width of the waistband. It’s close to 2” finished and that provides a nice substantial anchor to the pant.
The pants close with a side zip which it my favorite because it provides such a nice flat seam on the center front and back. It also allows you to contour the front and back if you need without having to worry about if the zipper will lay flat or not. Side zips are great for pear shapes!
The leg line is great, too. They are semi-fitted through the hip and then gently flare out to a really lovely wide leg. The hem is is as substantial as the waistband, too. This causes there to be a little bit of weight in the bottom of each leg that holds everything nice and straight.
Ok, and as always with my pattern review videos, here are a few things that I want to point out that I will correct next time.
Starting at the top, the waistband is still a little too big. Because the waistband is so high it hits at an area of the body that is actually quite straight. So, I think the curved waistband is a little bit of overkill. A straight, possibly tapered waistband would stay up better.
Also, because it’s so high waisted, the darts in the back could be a little bit longer.
Next, the pockets. Could you tell I have them sewn shut? That’s because they gape open. I took all the proper precautions to ensure the seamline wouldn’t stretch out like stay stitching and interfacing. But, because my body is so curvy in that area, it’s all but impossible to keep that flat. To fix it, I’d need to redraft the opening of the pocket, from a slash to a more curved shape.
Finally, the front crotch hook depth is a little too long. It’s hard to see with the naked eye because the ease in the hip and leg do a wonderful job of hiding things like that, but trust me, the hook is too deep.
Other than those three things, though, I’m really happy with the pants. I’m getting really really close to getting a near perfect fit. And, bonus, this pair doesn’t have an ounce of elastic either in the form of a stretchy waistband or in the fabric! Yah!
Speaking of the fabric, this is The Sew Classic Executive Suiting fabric from Joann. It’s 100% polyester and perfect for these pants. It has a slight sheen to it and a smooth hand. It’s a solid medium weight with just enough drape for a wide-leg pant. It comes in 6 different colors including a really pretty blue and a green that would also make beautiful pants.
I’ve been dreaming of a monochromatic look with pants and a thick sweater and this brown would be the most perfect jumping off point for that look. And, at just $10 a yard (plus your coupons!) it’s a no brainer if you’re like me and pants are still somewhat of an experiment.
